Once upon a time, long ago, I came to this beautiful coastline for the first time and stayed at the one in a million Grand Hotel Convento di Amalfi. It was a life-changing experience.
From that day on I fell hopelessly in love with Amalfi. Now, whenever I see olives, lemons or vineyards my thoughts return to a place as near to heaven as you can get on planet earth.
Well,
they call it the pearl of the entire coast and when you're talking
about a coast as exquisite as this one that really says something.
The town itself has a lot going for it, including a setting as splendid as can be.
Then there is the
quaintness of cottages of ivory and apricot and those little
cobbled streets that open out into piazze filled with the aromas of
fresh coffee, jasmine and lemons.
The highlight is the absolutely beautiful
11th century Cathedral of Saint Andrew (the patron saint
of Amalfi), with its mosaics, frescos, paintings and golden ceilings.
There are at least a dozen other churches (many dating from medieval
times) to see as well.
I loved the Amalfi paper museum too and I never realised that Amalfi is where some of the highest quality paper in the world (the type mainly used for wedding invitations) is made. I guess it's fitting that paper for the most romantic day in ones life is made right here on the worlds most romantic coastline.
Our Tip: Enjoy walking? Before you leave home get yourself a copy of the evergreen classic: Sorrento, Amalfi Coast & Capri: Car Tours and Walks (Sunflower Landscapes).
There's one main beach in Amalfi called Marina Grande, which you can't really miss as it is right in front of the town.
I'm not one for crowded beaches and those rows and rows of umbrellas irritate me – I hate to see a beach so regimented – but the bright colors do look very pretty on a summer's day!
The best thing about this beach? Watching Italian beach life in glorious technicolor! I love the way so few of the locals swim but all of them seem to take part in a continual parade up and down the front of the beach – you'll see some great sights.
There's a better beach called the Sirene further along near the little harbour but it's a pay beach and the one thing I like less than regimented lines of umbrellas is having to pay to use a beach.
There's also another beach just a 15-minute walk away in the nearby town of Atrani, which is usually quite a bit quieter and emptier than the main Amalfi beach.
Best option in my view is Marinella. You'll find details of this beach and the other best beaches in my Amalfi Beach Guide.
If you're coming from Rome or Naples you can always get a transfer but I honestly recommend having your own car (click here for the best rates).
If you don't have a car there are buses that run up and down the coast all day long and, combined with boats and walking, you'll be able to explore the coast this way too.
Our Tip: The ferries that run up and down the coast are a must - arriving in both Amalfi & Positano by boat is unforgettable!
The boat is also a lot more comfortable, and far less nerve-wracking, than the bus and even if you have your own car, make sure you take at least one boat trip that calls in to both Positano and Amalfi. You'll always remember it.
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